The cultivars of grapes utilized by the wine industry in California have been developed for local climate, soil and water primarily from wine grapes that have been used for centuries in the Mediterranean. What few realize and the French would never admit to is that as French vineyards were being decimated by disease, the disease resistant cultivars that were developed and are currently employed originated from those developed for California. Remember that the next time you enjoy a glass of sparkling wine that can not be labeled as Champagne.

Another culinary contribution from France that was not so beneficial to horticulture, and in fact is quite detrimental, is escargot. Unfortunately, escargot that is such an excellent appetizer in the few restaurants that still serve it is known by garden enthusiasts as the brown snail (or just ‘snail’). It has escaped captivity and naturalized many years ago and is now one of the most damaging garden pests.

Now that the days are slowly becoming longer and the weather is slowly becoming warmer, snails are becoming more active. Snail damage is obvious to most garden enthusiasts as partial or complete  defoliation or even complete disappearance of small plants. Slime trails confirm snail activity. If snails are expected to be a problem, control procedures should begin as soon as practical so that the population does not become too unmanageable.

The preferred method of minimizing snail population is hand picking and having a good pest management program in place. To be effective, this procedure must be performed thoroughly and regularly. Collection should be done nightly, preferably between 10:00 and 11:00 when the snails emerge to feed, until snails are scarce. A flashlight might be helpful. Then inspection and collection should be performed each week or as necessary. Snails should be either crushed or drowned in soapy water. A few strategically located dead snails (not many) will attract snails to facilitate extermination. The rest may be buried in the garden to enrich the soil and to prevent flies from finding them.

Barriers may be used to exclude snails from critical areas of the garden. Copper tape is likely the most effective snail barrier. It may be wrapped around pots or tree trunks or tacked to the top of the wooden sides of garden beds. I have found bare copper wire to be effective, but it can not be tied around trees because it does not allow for expansion of the trunk. Seedlings may be covered with screening or horticultural fabric if the edges are pressed into the soil so that snails can not force their way under.

Because snails hide during the day, strategically placed upside down pots, small boards or plants that are preferred hiding placed may be used as ‘traps’ from which the snails are easily picked. Conversely, clutter around the garden that is not being used as traps provides ideal environments for snails and should be removed.

Irrigation should be performed early in the day so that the area can dry somewhat and be less hospitable to snails; as well as various other pathogens. Drip irrigation, where practical, concentrates moisture where it is most needed without moistening the surrounding soil and facilitating snail activity. Too much irrigation will not only be detrimental to the garden by other means, but may also promote snail infestation.

Although I would like to take credit for all this information, I have obtained most of it from one of the brochures available from the West Valley Clean Water Program. This and other brochures are available by telephoning (408)354-5385.