In winter, I try to explain why it is important to prune dormant trees, particularly fruit trees, prior to the end of their dormancy. Fruit trees, which were not pruned properly last winter may now be experiencing problems as the weight of the developing fruit is more than the limbs can support. Heavily fruited limbs, which are not propped up, may break, compromising the structural integrity of the tree. In such situations, it is best to only prune off broken limbs or dress wounds where limbs have torn away from larger limbs. Dressing should only involve cleaning up any splintered wood or torn bark to enhance proper healing. Painting with grafting compound is not necessary. (Sometimes, I think that this misconception was perpetuated by the manufactures of grafting compound, as home grafting became less popular, diminishing the need for their products.) Some minimal pruning may be performed, but only if absolutely necessary.

To prevent trees from breaking from the weight of their own fruit, it is best to prop limbs as much as possible, or to remove excessive fruit. Hard pruning in summer can be just as damaging as breaking limbs. However, removal of fruit not only minimizes the weight, but also demand on the trees already strained resources. I realize that this is probably obvious to many of us who are experienced in growing fruit trees,  but it is often a problem with the less experienced this time of year. (I was recently disturbed to learn that there are classes, which teach summer pruning of fruit trees.)

It is important to realize that fruit trees, like most species of plants, are on a tight schedule between spring and autumn. When they break dormancy, they do not have time or tolerance to major interruptions in their schedule. Trees pruned in winter respond by adjusting their schedule in advance. However, it is difficult to modify a schedule once it has been executed. It is also important to realize the importance of winter pruning and why it can not be eliminated from required maintenance altogether. Prior to selective breeding, fruit was small and sparse; easily supported by fruit trees. Breeding for unnatural maximized productivity has made most fruit trees dependent on unnatural maintenance procedures. If left to grow on their own, fruit is so large and profuse, that it can not be supported by the trees.

Summer pruning, which interrupts the seasonal schedule of fruit trees, leaves interior limbs open to full sun exposure, often resulting in sunburn. Eventually, exposed limbs will be shaded by new foliar growth, but it is often too late. Because the trees are normally shaded by their own foliage in summer, they are not normally concerned with damaging sun exposure. Otherwise, they would produce more resilient bark, or reflective bark, like that of fig trees. (Fig trees produce reflective bark to accommodate for their natural habit of splitting apart during summer. They split so that broken limbs which are still attached to the main tree may root into the soil where they land during the following winter and spring.) Limbs of fruit trees which are exposed by winter pruning are able to shade themselves as they normally would, in early spring when days are shorter and sunlight is less intense.

Improper pruning also upsets the functions of the victim tree. Although the tree probably does not miss the work involved with fattening up the fruit, it will likely miss any lost foliar area. Plants are very efficient at producing foliage as fast as previously foliage or stored resources can support. However, the tree is always reliant on existing foliage to continue at a constant rate of growth. If too much foliage is removed when the tree is not expecting it, resources must be diverted. This often results in stunted development of remaining fruit. Resulting shoot growth is also often stunted. Stems are usually shorter and thinner and are not fully developed prior to dormancy. Because most fruit trees develop floral buds over a complete growing season, stunted growth will not likely bloom or set fruit the following year. It is also likely that terminal buds of weak stems may not sufficiently “blind out” (enclose themselves in weather resistant bud scales), and may even be damaged by cold, damp weather over winter.