My old college roommate has just informed me that he has installed two large “topiary” deer on his front lawn. I find this information to be rather amusing. I mean, think of it like this: The best landscape designer in Southern California has a pair of very large, year round Chia pets in his garden! (Ch- Ch- Ch- Chia!)

Unfortunately, like many intensive horticultural practices, real topiary is almost never seen anymore. Traditional topiary, as it was perfected by the English, involved intricate shearing of dense shrubbery into less than traditional and often whimsical shapes. In formal gardens, topiary were often symmetrical geometric shapes such as cones or cubes. If less formal, the choice of forms is only limited by complexity. More complicated topiary could take several years to complete and requires very strict maintenance. It is not as easy as Edward Scissorshands makes it look; which is probably why it is so rare now.

Hollies, privets, boxwoods and a few other dense, slow growing shrubs with small leaves are still used as formal geometric topiary. I have also seen rosemary sheared into cones or spheres on bare straight stems. However, most modern “topiary” involves training climbing vines, usually English ivy, on wire frames. Moss is sometimes stuffed into the frames to add substance. Although framed topiary requires less maintenance than traditional topiary, it still needs considerable attention.

Young framed topiary needs to be tucked as the vines extend away from the frame. (Simply push the vines back into the mass of vines within the frame.) As the vines mature, and tucking is no longer necessary to fill out the frame, periodic shearing must be performed so that inner foliage is not shaded out. Tucking may occasionally be performed as necessary to fill bald spots. For reasons I have yet to understand, ivy in topiary frames seems to be more susceptible to infestations of spider mites. Periodic rinsing keeps mites from getting established and removes dust from foliage.

In pots, framed topiary may require more water than expected. The foliar surface area of larger or more vertical specimens is usually disproportionate to the volume of soil. With extra irrigation, regular fertilizer should be applied, as it is more quickly leaches through. Because dieback may be very damaging, it is important to keep plants healthy.

Elsewhere in the garden, it is important to keep up with the minimal pruning which is performed this time of year. Some fast growing annuals may benefit from tip pruning to promote denser growth. Like bearded iris earlier in summer, many perennials which have finished flowering should have spent blooms removed. Plants often spend considerable resources on seed production if it is allowed to develop.

Cane berries, such as raspberries, blackberries and boysenberries, are some of the few plants which are best pruned this time of year. Canes which grew last year and have produced fruit this year are finished and should be cut to the ground. Small weak stems from this year should also be removed. After all this, the canes from this summer should be tied to their supporting fence, trellis or cage. Tip pruning should not be performed now, but in winter when the canes are not actively growing.